DIY Travel: A Trip to Scotland
Maybe you’re like me and have always looked on with envy at the beautiful posts on social media of the travels of friends and family. Always dreamed what it would be like to travel the globe, but truthfully wondered, “how the heck do those people pay for it??” I have friends that (at least from their Instagram) look like they are going on a fabulous trip every other month. But like…. don’t you people have jobs? And student loan payments? And other bills that make it unlikely to have so much leftover at the end of each month that you can spontaneously hop on a plane to Europe for the week?
A few years ago my sister went on a fabulous trip to Italy. She pulled out all the stops and had the trip of a lifetime. And guess what? My sister is in her early 20’s. I looked on and thought, “if she can do it, so can I.” Thus my Scotland trip dream was born. Read on to pick up some tips on how you can DIY your own dream trip - and you can do it without stress and without breaking the bank. Then, I’ll give you my own itinerary for a fantastic trip to Scotland (feel free to copy it, I won’t mind!).
STEP ONE: SAVING
I don’t think this part gets talked about enough so I wanted to share what I did. It’s extremely simple but you must practice delayed gratification, something that I know is hard for me and most millennial’s. I saved $30 a week, with the mindset that in 2 - 3 years, I’d have plenty on money for the trip. It’s not like Scotland was going anywhere, and this way my monthly budget wasn’t disrupted.
After the first year, you have plenty to get your flight purchased (I recommend checking out Icelandair - they have incredible deals and flash sales) and then you can begin planning your trip while saving up the rest of your money. It was a little over 2 years from beginning to save to when I actually went - I think $4320 is way over budget for a trip to Scotland so you definitely don’t need to wait 3 years to go!
STEP TWO: PLANNING + PACKING
Okay now for the fun part! Where do you want to stay, where do you want to explore and what do you want to see? If you want incredible inspiration, check out my friend, Emily Sandifer. She’s a Los Angeles-based photographer who visits Scotland multiple times per year and gave me some excellent recommendations. Check out her Instagram (@ladyemilytravels) for drool worthy photographs - you’ll be dreaming of the cobble-stoned streets of Edinburgh and the bothies of the Highlands in no time.
I would be remiss if I didn’t give a shout-out to my homeboy Rick Steves (Instagram @ricksteveseurope) for providing an initial framework for the trip. My mom bought me his book the first month we started saving and it was so fun to read through and begin to imagine our future adventures.
We went at the end of May and we got all types of weather. Pack light, but pack for everything. Layering is key and keep in mind that once you get into the Highlands, you’ll be doing a lot of outdoor activities. From hiking around Isle of Skye, to touring castle ruins, great footwear is a must. Download my packing list here:
STEP THREE: ENJOY YOUR TRIP
You’ve saved, you’ve planned, and you’ve packed. Now you’re ready to go on your adventure!! Continue reading for my Scotland itinerary, including links to the Airbnbs we stayed at, restaurant recommendations, and my favorite sites.
EDINBURGH
What a magical city. I could live here (or at least spend a considerable amount of time here). We stayed in New Town, but easily walked over to Old Town to explore the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, and Arthur’s Seat.
Recommendations:
Edinburgh Castle (This was an exciting start to our Scotland trip, but I have a weird aversion to wax figurines in museums… and this castle had a TON of them.)
Royal Mile walk (self-guided or official tour, you’ll see all of the most iconic sites of Old Town.)
Hike to Arthur’s Seat (fairly strenuous uphill, but you can look over the whole city)
The Potter Trail (one of the only organized tours we did - I highly recommend for Harry Potter fans. And it’s free!)
Walker Slater on Victoria Street (Gorgeous wool jackets and hats. Also Victoria Street is what JK Rowling based Diagon Alley off of)
Accommodations:
Calton Hill Airbnb (Pros: Amazing walk-ability, really cute and full of character. Cons: Older building, garden was dirty so we didn’t spend any time out there.)
Restaurants + Pubs:
Devil’s Advocate (Highly recommend. Amazing gastropub-type restaurant with great food + drink. We went early so we got a table right away, but it gets very busy later on.)
The Witchery (Reservations required. Very fancy, very expensive, but fun for a splurge night)
Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar (Excellent for savory pies and a Scottish ale at lunch)
The Milkman (Coffee + pastries right in the heart of the city.)
Ensign Ewart Pub (I recommend grabbing ‘Scottish’ coffees.)
INVERNESS
A 3-hour train ride took us to Inverness, the largest city in the Highlands. Once we got there, we rented a car for the remainder of the trip which was accompanied by **drama** THEY GAVE AWAY OUR CAR!!! Or, I should say, they gave away the automatic car we’d reserved. We were stuck with a manual. Keep in mind that for us, this meant we’d be driving a stick-shift on the opposite side of the car AND on the opposite side of the road. Stressful in the moment, but a good memory now. And that’s what traveling is all about!! Taking the curve balls that are thrown at you and not allowing them to ruin your day.
Recommendations:
Culloden Battlefield (Great for a sunny day, you can visit the museum and then take a walk around the battlefield where the 1745 Jacobite Rising tragically came to an end)
Urquart Castle at Loch Ness (You can explore the ruins and get a beautiful view of Loch Ness - avoid the Loch Ness monster tourist traps)
Clava Cairns (Ancient burial site from the Bronze Age. I’d recommend visiting on your way to another destination.)
Accommodations:
Glamping Pods (This was our FAVORITE place we stayed!! Maggie, the owner, was SO nice and one of my favorite memories was waking up early in the morning to have coffee in the shared bothy, overlooking the Loch nearby and watching the farm chickens cluck around. 10/10 recommend)
Restaurants + Pubs:
Hootenanny (Live Scottish music, friendly people, this place is a must. Also my mom’s favorite night out.)
Rajah (Incredible Indian food. We had to be rolled out of there from all the naan and tikka masala)
Black Isle Brewery (If you ask for a ‘flight’ you will get full beers rather than small tasters…learned from experience!)
ARMADALE & ISLE OF SKYE
This quaint little town was a perfect place to stay while we explored Skye. My family hails from the MacDonald clan, so we enjoyed Armadale Castle & Gardens, which was build on Ancestral MacDonald lands. You will feel transported to another world while driving around this island. If you only have a day like us, take a self-guided drive around the Trotternish Peninsula. We used Rick Steve’s book to help us find all the important landmarks and it was a fantastic day. Watch out for potholes and feral goats!!
Recommendations:
Armadale Castle & Gardens (Built on ancestral MacDonald clan lands, these castle ruins and surrounding gardens made for a stunning afternoon)
Find a Highland Coo (Surprisingly tough to find, it was my mission to get a photo with one!!)
Self-Guided drive around the Trotternish Peninsula (Recommended by our BnB host, Angus, this was an incredible way to see the island with limited time.)
Skye Museum of Island Life (At the very tip of the peninsula, this is also a great opportunity to stretch your legs and explore original thatched stone huts)
Fairy Pools (We went on a gorgeous, sunny day - there were so many locals jumping off the cliffs into the pools and enjoying picnics by the water. We really missed the opportunity to join in, so if it’s a nice day, bring your swimsuit!!)
Accommodations:
Homeleigh Inn (We loved this little inn. Our host, Angus, was so nice and cooked a delicious Highland breakfast for us in the morning)
Restaurants & Pubs:
The Chippy (Fantastic fish n’ chips spot in Portree.)
Bar Am Praban (One of the only dinner spots near our Inn, it wasn’t my favorite food, but I liked the intimate atmosphere. Felt like a place the locals liked to hang out.)
This is a sparse area of the world, so there isn’t a big city with pubs to grab a drink at the end of the day. Bring wine and enjoy watching the sunset by the water.
FORT WILLIAMS & GLENCOE
The actual town of Fort Williams isn’t really anything to write home about, but it is central to many other must-see places Scotland. On your way there, you must stop at Eilean Donan Castle, which was completely magical and exciting to explore. Take day trips to hike around Glencoe, where pictures literally do not do it justice, and be sure to visit the Glenfinnan Viaduct, where you might catch a glimpse of the Hogwarts Express headed to Hogwarts. (Can you tell I’m a huge Harry Potter fan?)
Recommendations:
Eilean Donan Castle (Extremely picturesque, if you love history and exploring castles, this one has been restored beautifully.)
Hike in Glencoe (There are a variety of hikes throughout Glencoe, and I highly recommend finding one that fits your fitness level. Films like James Bond: Skyfall and Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Askaban have filmed in Glencoe and it’s not hard to see why once you’re here. One of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.)
Glenfinnan Viaduct (A short trip, and really only worth it for Potter-heads like me. There is a short hike nearby, but I mostly just wanted the photo-op.)
Accommodations:
Mansefield House (This inn was fine; it was clean and they offered a delicious breakfast, but I probably wouldn’t stay there again.)
Restaurants:
Garrison West (You MUST go here!! We had the most delicious espresso martinis, followed by a great meal. I’m big on character in a restaurant, and this place passed with flying colors!)
INVERARAY & OBAN
At some point on your Scotland trip, you absolutely have to taste some Scotch. And if you can, you should do a distillery tour. We traveled to Oban, a quaint seaside town that was built around the world famous Oban Distillery, and had a fantastic distillery tour, complete with a scotch tasting at the end (don’t forget the candied ginger!).
Recommendations:
Oban Distillery Tour (Even if you’re not a scotch fan, you will enjoy this tour.)
Inverary Castle & Gardens (This is what you imagine a castle to look like. Picture-perfect, and totally restored, this is still a working castle - the Duke of Argyll lives here with his family for part of the year.)
Kayak on a Loch (We found this small mom n’ pop kayak rental shop and spent a lovely day on Loch Awe.)
Accommodations:
The Old Post Office Cottage (Okay, I was really excited about this one - an old stone Post Office converted into a cottage?! - but I was disappointed. It wasn’t updated and everything felt musty and old. Also not the greatest location in relation to the activities we wanted to do. You live and you learn!)
Restaurants & Pubs
The Tearoom at Inverary Castle (Very inexpensive but delicious picnic-type meal. Eat here while visiting the castle and gardens)
Cuan Mor (Right in the heart of Oban, this menu was seafood heavy and the drinks were delicious.)
The George Hotel (This restaurant was literally the only one open for dinner on the day we were there and it was…fine. A better option would be to grab groceries and cook in your Airbnb with wine!)
Scotland, you were magical and I will be back. I’m still dreaming of the Highlands, and I need to make it up further north next time to see the Orkney Islands.
Some of my favorite memories: watching my Mom attempt to play the bagpipes while being draped in a tartan; playing our favorite card game, 1-10, almost every night; binge-watching the TV show Reign on the nights we felt like staying in; succeeding in taking a picture with a Highland coo; trying not to backseat drive and then realizing it’s really freaking hard to drive through roundabouts; being with my Mom and sister for 10 whole days and realizing that they love me unconditionally.
I hope you found this guide helpful in planning your own trip! Comment below with any questions, and happy traveling!
